Checking shirt fit at the shoulders and sleeves
Short answer: Shirt fit is decided first and foremost at the shoulders and sleeves, because they cannot be changed without having the shirt resewn. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of the shoulder, and the sleeve should end at the wrist. Here is a simple checklist to use in front of the mirror.
Start at the shoulders
The shoulder seam should sit exactly where the shoulder ends and the upper arm begins. If it sits further in, the shirt is too small, and if it sits out on the upper arm, it is too big. The shoulders are the part you cannot correct afterwards, so spend time on them.
The sleeve length
With your arms hanging at your sides, the sleeve should end just at the wrist so the cuff does not cover the hand. When you bend your arm, the shirt should not pull high up, and the cuff should stay at the wrist. See bamboo shirt for men if you want to compare lengths and cuts.
Freedom of movement when you lift your arms
Lift both arms above your head and stretch them out in front. If the shirt pulls across the back or comes out of the trousers, it is too small or too tight. A little room across the back makes the day more comfortable, especially if you drive or sit at a screen.
The chest and the back
The shirt should close neatly across the chest without pulling at the buttons, and the fabric should not form horizontal folds pointing at the placket. The back should hang smooth without too much fabric. If you have broad shoulders and a narrow waist, a tailored cut often fits better than a straight one.
The collar and the neck
You should be able to slide a finger between collar and neck when the top button is done up. If it is looser it looks untidy, and if it is tighter it soon becomes uncomfortable. Washing can change the fit slightly, so do not pick a collar that is tight from the start.
The length and how you wear it
If you want to wear the shirt untucked, it should end around the waistband or a little below, but no longer. For tucking in, it must be long enough to stay in the trousers when you bend over. Take the shirt into the fitting room at the length you actually wear it.
What washing does to the fit
The fabric can shrink a little or stretch after washing, depending on fibre and wash. Follow the label and do not dry the shirt too hot. If in doubt, do not go up a size, but choose the one that fits the way you want when new.
When the fit cannot be saved
If the shoulders are too wide or the sleeves too long, a tailor can shorten the sleeves, but shoulders are hard to alter. It is therefore better to choose another size than to hope tailoring solves it. A tailor can also take in the sides if the shirt is too wide.
Socks and T-shirts for the same day
When the shirt fits, perhaps all that is missing is what lies closest to the body. See bamboo T-shirts for men under the shirt and think of your feet with bamboo tennis socks for men for active days.
Frequently asked questions
Where should the shoulder seam sit?
At the edge of the shoulder, where the shoulder ends and the upper arm begins. If it sits too far out, the shirt is too big, and if too far in, it is too small.
How long should the sleeves be?
They should end at the wrist when your arms hang down. When you bend your arm, the cuff should stay at the wrist and not slide far up the arm.
Can a tailor alter a shirt?
Yes, sleeves can be shortened and sides taken in, but shoulders are hard to change. That is why the shoulders must be right when you buy, and the other parts can be adjusted later.
