How fabric is ordered in metres
Short answer: Fabric is bought in running metres of a set width, not by the number of garments. The use per garment is worked out from the cutting layout and multiplied by the quantity. That is why width and use are key numbers in an order.
Fabric is traded in metres
When a factory buys fabric, it buys running metres, not finished garments. The fabric comes on large rolls, and the price is counted per metre. So you must convert from the number of garments to the number of metres before an order can be placed.
The width belongs with the number
A fabric one and a half metres wide and one two metres wide give different use for the same model. A wider fabric fits more pattern pieces across and so leaves less waste. The width is always in the order, so there is no doubt about what was bought.
The layout shows the use
A cutting layout is a drawing of how the pattern pieces lie on the fabric. It shows how many garments come out of one metre and how much is left over. The layout is made in advance and is the basis for the whole fabric calculation in an order.
The use is calculated before the order
From the layout the use per garment is worked out and multiplied by the number of garments in the order. Then a few percent is added for waste. The calculation is done before the fabric is ordered, so you know what to buy. See our bestsellers for men.
A little too much is ordered
The factory typically adds five to ten percent for faults and samples. There can be flaws in the fabric, and a few metres are needed for sample garments and checks. Leftovers become stock or waste. Order exactly the calculated amount, and you risk running short at the end.
What if too little is ordered
If too little is ordered, garments are missing at the end, and a new batch of fabric may differ in colour. Even with the same colour code, two batches can look slightly different, and it shows on the garments. So it is better to order a little too much than a little too little.
Leftover fabric gets a second life
Offcuts after cutting become stock or waste. Some can be used for small parts such as pockets and label tapes, or kept for later orders. That is better than throwing them away, but it does not cover everything. See also the brands Zent and Boody.
Fabric in kilos or metres
Sometimes fabric is bought not in metres but in kilos. Knitted fabric is often traded by the kilo, woven fabric by the metre. The difference comes from how the fabric is made and weighed. Whatever the unit, the use is worked out from the layout and the same percentage is added.
Why it matters for the price
Fabric use is one of the largest items in the price of a garment. If each piece needs half a metre more, it shows across the whole order. So factories work to get the layout as tight as possible without the fit or quality of the garment suffering.
Frequently asked questions
How much fabric goes into a T-shirt
Around one to one and a half metres, depending on size and width. A wider roll and a smaller size give a lower use per garment.
What if too little is ordered
Then garments are missing, and a new batch of fabric may differ in colour. That is why the factory usually adds a few percent to be on the safe side.
Is fabric bought by the kilo instead
Sometimes. Knitted fabric is often traded by the kilo and woven fabric by the metre, but the use is still worked out from the cutting layout.
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