How to rehem a bottom edge
Short answer: Measure all the way around, fold twice, pin every five centimetres and sew with a zigzag stitch. The measuring matters more than the sewing, because a crooked hem shows straight away. Take the time to measure and you get a straight hem that lasts.
Why the hem deserves time
The hem is the first thing people see when a garment hangs on a hanger or sits on the body. If it is crooked, the whole piece looks worn, even when the rest is fine. Luckily, a new hem is one of the easiest repairs, and you only need a machine, pins, a tape measure and an evening.
Measuring comes first
Measure from the original edge and all the way around, not just in one place. Put a pin every five centimetres before you fold, and check on a table that the gaps are equal. Do not trust your eye. An edge that looks straight in your hand often shows its faults only once the garment is on the body.
How to place the pins
Push the pins across the edge so they hold both layers without pulling the fabric crooked. Pins every five centimetres are enough to keep the fold from moving while you guide the fabric under the needle. Take them out one at a time just before the machine reaches them, so you never sew over metal.
The two folds
Fold one centimetre inwards and then one more. The second fold hides the raw edge so it cannot fray. Press the fold flat with your fingers as you work, so it lies evenly all the way around. An edge with two equal folds looks tidy on both sides and stays thin, because there are only two layers.
Zigzag gives with the fabric
Sew a few millimetres from the innermost fold using zigzag. The seam has to give when the garment is stretched, or the threads snap at the first tug. A straight seam is stiff and pops easily in knitted fabric. Choose a narrow, short zigzag, so the seam stays discreet and barely shows from the outside.
Let the fabric keep its stretch
On knitted fabric, pull only very lightly while you sew, so the thread has some slack. Otherwise the edge tightens and the garment bulges over it. Do not pull too hard, or the fabric turns wavy. Let the machine feed the fabric itself and support it lightly with your fingers in front of and behind the needle. See our bamboo sweatshirt for women.
Thread and needle to suit the fabric
Pick a thread in the same colour as the garment so the seam blends in. Use a needle made for knits, which slides between the loops instead of cutting them. Try it first on an offcut or on the hidden edge at the side. That way you see whether the tension is right before you start on the whole hem.
Check the finished hem
When you reach the start, let the seam overlap by a couple of centimetres so it cannot open. Hold the garment up and see whether the edge hangs straight and free of waves. Small waves can often be steamed out. If the whole edge is crooked, unpick it and start again rather than live with an uneven hem. See our bamboo undershirt for women.
Washing and fit afterwards
Wash the garment as usual and see whether the edge keeps its shape. If it lies flat after washing, the seam is good. If it rides up, the fold was too narrow or the fabric was stretched too much while sewing. The garment may now be two centimetres shorter, so try it on first. Looking for a new one? Browse bamboo sweatwear.
Frequently asked questions
How much shorter does the garment get
With two folds of one centimetre each, the garment becomes two centimetres shorter. Keep that in mind before you fold, and try it on afterwards so the length still suits you and your body.
Can you use hemming tape instead
For a temporary fix, yes, but it does not last many washes. Then the edge comes loose and drops again. If you want a hem that stays, needle and thread is the better route.
Should the edge be ironed first
It makes folding easier, but your fingers also work on thin fabric. Iron on a low heat, read the care label first, and let the edge cool before you sew.
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