How to take a garment in at the side
Short answer: Turn the garment inside out, measure how much has to go, halve the number and sew a new side seam on each side. Always try it on before you cut, because a cut cannot be undone.
Start with the measuring
Put the garment on inside out and pinch the excess together at the sides. Place pins where the new seam should lie. Take the garment off and measure the distance from the old seam to the pins. Ask someone to help if you can, because it is hard to pin both sides evenly on your own.
Halve the number
If the garment has to come in four centimetres in total, two centimetres must go on each side. If you take it all from one side, the side seam sits crooked on the body, and patterns or stripes can shift. So always divide it evenly between both sides, and measure each side on its own.
Mark the new seam
Lay the garment flat, inside out, and draw the new seam with chalk from the armhole down to the hem. Let the line follow the old seam at the top and ease gently out to the measured point. A soft, even line looks better than a sharp angle and sits more comfortably.
Sew before you cut
Sew the new seam and try the garment on again. If it fits, cut off the excess and finish the edge. If you cut first, you cannot change your mind. So sew with long stitches, or baste first, so you can unpick again if the fit is not what you had in mind.
Finish the edge
When the seam sits right, cut off the excess so that a narrow seam allowance remains. Finish the edge with zigzag or overlock so it does not fray. If the fabric is knit, choose a stitch that can give, so the seam does not split when you move.
Knit fabric needs zigzag
With knit fabric the seam has to be able to stretch. Use zigzag or a knit stitch and do not pull the fabric while you sew, so the seam does not turn wavy. A straight stitch with no elasticity snaps when the garment is stretched or pulled over the head.
The armhole gets tighter
If the side is taken in a lot, the armhole gets tighter, because the seam moves closer to the armpit. So go gradually and try the garment on after every adjustment. If you cannot lift your arms freely, you have gone too far, and you need to unpick a little and sew the seam slightly wider again.
Without a sewing machine
If you do not have a sewing machine, you can sew the side seam with small hand stitches. It takes longer, but it holds well if the stitches are small and close and the thread is strong. Sew a backstitch every few centimetres, so the seam does not run open if a single thread breaks.
Clothes for everyday
If you need clothes that fit better from the start, see bamboo pants for women, bamboo dressing gown for men and offers for women. Measure a garment you already like, and you will know which measurement to aim for.
Frequently asked questions
Can you take in a knit garment?
Yes, with zigzag. The seam has to be able to stretch, so use a stitch that gives, and do not pull the fabric while you sew.
What about the armhole?
If the side is taken in a lot, the armhole gets tighter. Go gradually and try the garment on after every adjustment, so you do not end up with sleeves that pull across the armpit.
Can you take in without a sewing machine?
Yes, with small hand stitches. It takes longer, but it holds well if the stitches are small and close and the thread is strong enough to stand up to wear.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
