Seams that hold and seams that do not

Short answer: Look for close, even stitching and a seam that can stretch with the fabric. A tight, straight seam in knitted fabric bursts the first time it is worn.

What to look for

Turn the garment inside out. The stitches should sit close and even with no gaps, and the edge should be finished so the fabric does not fray. If the stitches are long and irregular, the seam was sewn in a hurry.

The seam has to be able to stretch

In knitted fabric the seam has to follow the stretch. An overlock or a flatlock can do that. An ordinary straight seam cannot and bursts where the garment stretches most. See bamboo t-shirts for men.

The places under most load

Crotch seam, armhole and neck edge. Check those three first, because they are the ones that go. See bamboo underwear for men and bamboo underwear for women.

Frequently asked questions

How many stitches per centimetre is good

Four to six is common. Fewer means a quickly sewn seam.

Can you tell whether a seam is strong

Pull gently at it. If it gives a little without opening, it is stretchy.

What do you do about a seam that has come apart

Sew it with small stitches and a little slack, so the thread can follow the fabric.