Side seam versus tubular knit
Short answer: A tubular knit garment has no side seam. It is cheaper to sew, but it fits a body with a waist less well.
How they are made
Tubular knit is knitted as a tube and cut to length. There is no seam in the side, only at the shoulder and sleeve. A garment with side seams is cut from flat knit and sewn together on both sides, which adds a little work to each piece but also gives more control over the shape and cut.
What you feel on the body
Without a side seam, the garment is the same width all the way down. With a side seam, the cut can be narrower at the waist and wider over the hips. That gives a better fit on most people. See bamboo t-shirt for women and compare how a cut with side seams sits on the body.
When tubular knit is an advantage
There is no seam in the side that can rub, which is welcome in underwear and on sensitive skin. The cut is simple and straight, and it suits loose garments where the fit does not need to follow the body closely. See bamboo underwear for women and bamboo t-shirts for men.
How to see the difference
Look at the side from the armpit down. If there is no seam, the garment is tubular knit. If there is a seam on each side, it is cut and sewn. You can also turn the garment inside out, where a side seam shows more clearly as a line of stitches from armpit to hem.
When tubular knit twists
Tubular knit garments can twist a little after washing if the knit was stretched crooked on the machine. You see it as a line or seam that turns around the body. Pull the garment straight while it is damp and let it dry flat, and it often settles back.
Price and labour
A side seam takes more minutes of work, because the pieces must be cut, matched and sewn together. That often shows in the price. Tubular knit is quicker to make, and that is not bad in itself, but you get less shaping for the money, so consider what the garment is for.
How long the seam lasts
A side seam is a place where the garment can come apart if it is sewn badly. Check the stitches as you would in other seams and see that they lie close and even without gaps. A good side seam lasts as long as the rest of the garment, and tubular knit has none to worry about.
Choosing by body shape
If you have a clear waist, a side seam will often sit better. If you have a straight frame or prefer a loose cut, tubular knit is perfectly fine. There is no right or wrong answer, only different cuts, and what matters is that the garment suits how you use it daily.
A short rule of thumb
Look for a side seam when you want shape, and for tubular knit when you want a free, seamless feel at the side. Try both if in doubt. You can often feel the difference the first time you pull the garment on, and that difference is what to choose by.
Frequently asked questions
How can I see what I have
Look at the side from the armpit down. If there is no seam, it is tubular knit. If there is a seam on each side, the garment is cut from flat knit and sewn together.
Do tubular knit t-shirts twist
They can after washing if the knit is stretched crooked. Look for a seam or line that turns around the body, and pull the garment straight while it is damp.
Is a side seam more expensive
Yes, it takes more minutes of work, and that often shows in the price. In return you usually get a fit that follows the body better than a straight tube.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
