The myth that pilling means poor quality
Short answer: Pilling is not necessarily a sign of poor quality. Pills form when short fibre ends are rubbed loose and twisted together into small balls. Soft, fine fibres often pill more easily, and friction and washing play a big part in how much you see.
How pills form
A yarn consists of many fibres twisted together. Through wear and washing, some of the fibre ends are rubbed free of the yarn. As those loose ends keep being rubbed, they twist around each other and form small balls on the surface. If the fibres are strong, the balls stay attached because they are held by the fibres that remain in the yarn. That is what we call pilling, and it happens to most fabrics in time.
Soft fibres pill more easily
Fine, soft fibres such as merino, cashmere and viscose feel lovely against the skin, but precisely because they are fine and smooth, they are rubbed loose more easily. A loosely twisted yarn also has more loose ends than a tightly twisted one. This means that some of the softest clothing you can buy is also the clothing that pills the most. Pilling is often the price of softness rather than proof of poor workmanship.
Where pilling appears most
Pills turn up where there is the most friction. Under the arms, between the thighs, on the seat and wherever a bag strap or seatbelt rubs. On bedding they often appear where you lie and move the most. A set of bamboo bedding may therefore develop light pilling at the foot end or near the pillow over time, without the fabric being poor for that reason. It is simply normal use becoming visible.
How to reduce pilling
Wash clothes inside out so the surface is rubbed less. Wash them with similar fabrics and avoid mixing them with towels, jeans and other rough items. Use a gentle programme and a lower spin speed. Avoid the tumble dryer, which causes a lot of friction. Warm layers such as bamboo long johns, worn under trousers all day, benefit especially from being washed inside out and hung up to dry afterwards.
Remove pills carefully
Pills can be removed with a fabric shaver, a lint comb or a lint roller. Hold the fabric taut on a flat surface and work gently so you do not cut into it. It is a good idea to do this before the pills grow large, because they otherwise gather more fibre. Once the loose ends are gone, the number of new pills often drops, since there are fewer loose fibres left at the surface of the fabric.
When pilling is a sign of wear
If the fabric becomes thin, or the yarn starts to break up around the pills, the garment is worn out. That happens to every fabric eventually. A little pilling after a few months of use is normal, however, especially on soft underwear such as bamboo underwear for men. Judge quality by fit, seams and how the fabric holds up over time, not by the first pills alone.
Frequently asked questions
Does bamboo clothing pill
Viscose from bamboo can pill a little, especially where there is friction. Wash inside out and avoid the tumble dryer.
Do synthetic clothes pill less
Synthetic fibres can pill too, and because they are strong, the pills often stay attached for longer.
Can pilling be avoided entirely
Not entirely, but gentle washing and less friction make it far less noticeable.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
