What a yarn count means
Short answer: The yarn count tells you how fine the yarn is. A higher number means a thinner yarn, and a thinner yarn usually gives a softer and finer fabric. Here we explain how to read the number and what it means for clothes and bedding.
What a yarn count is
A yarn count is a number that describes how thick or thin a yarn is. All textiles are made from yarn, and its thickness affects how the fabric looks, feels and behaves. The number is rarely shown in shops, but it lies behind many of the differences you feel in fabric.
A reversed system
The system works the opposite way to what you might expect. The number tells you how many units of length go into one unit of weight. The thinner the yarn, the more length fits into the same weight and the higher the number. A high yarn count therefore means a fine, thin yarn, not a thick one.
How to read the number
The rule of thumb is simple: a high number means thin yarn and a low number means thick yarn. That holds as long as you compare yarns measured in the same way. If two makers use different systems, the numbers cannot be compared directly, so always check what the number stands for first.
What it means for the garment
The thickness of the yarn affects surface, weight and durability. A thin yarn gives an even, smooth surface, while a thicker yarn gives a coarser and sturdier look. That is why two garments of the same fibre can feel very different, simply because the yarn was spun differently.
Fine yarn
Fine yarn gives a smooth, soft fabric, but it costs more to make, because more metres of yarn are needed for the same weight. The fabric often feels lighter and more elegant, and it sits nicely against the skin. It suits garments worn close to the body. See bamboo sweatwear.
Coarse yarn
Coarse yarn gives a sturdier fabric that stands up to more wear. It often feels a little more solid and can be a good choice for garments that are worn a lot and washed often. On the other hand the surface is usually not as smooth as with fine yarn, and the fabric feels a little more pronounced in the hand.
Where you meet the number
You rarely come across the yarn count in web shops, but more often on bedding and shirts, where the fineness of the fabric matters a lot. This is especially so when a maker wants to say something about quality. See for example bamboo split sheets and bamboo shirt for men.
Yarn count and fabric weight
Yarn count and fabric weight are not directly linked. A fine yarn can be knitted or woven tightly and end up a heavy fabric, while a coarse yarn worked loosely can give a light one. To judge whether something is thin or full, fabric weight is therefore a better figure than the yarn count alone.
Frequently asked questions
Is fine yarn always better
For softness yes, since fine yarn usually gives a smoother, softer fabric. For durability it is not necessarily better, because a coarser yarn often gives a sturdier fabric that stands up to more use.
Can you see the yarn count on the garment
No, normally you cannot. The yarn count appears only in the maker's technical specifications, and most garments do not carry it on the label. You have to feel the fabric and read the description instead.
Are yarn count and fabric weight linked
Not directly. A fine yarn can be knitted or woven tightly and end up heavy, and a coarse yarn can give a light fabric. So look at both when you judge a fabric.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
