Why some fabrics pill more than others

Short answer: Pilling happens when short fibres work their way out of the fabric and roll into small balls. It occurs mostly where there is friction, such as under the arms and by a bag strap, and it usually eases after the first months.

Short fibres

The shorter the fibres, the more easily they work their way out of the yarn. Yarn spun from long fibres pills less, because each fibre is held in more places. Loosely spun yarn also pills more than tightly twisted yarn. That is why two fabrics of the same fibre can behave differently.

Friction is the cause

Pills form where fabric rubs against something: a bag strap, a chair back, a desk under the arms or other clothes in the machine. The loose fibre ends tangle together and stay put. The more friction in one spot, the faster pills appear there.

Sweats pill the most

Sweats and other soft surfaces have the most loose fibre, so they pill the most at first. That is part of the price of the soft feel. After a few washes and a pass with a fabric shaver, it usually settles down. See sweatwear.

Turn clothes inside out

Washing clothes inside out means the outer side rubs less against the drum and other clothes. It is the cheapest tip that works. Do not fill the machine completely either, so the clothes can move freely without rubbing hard against everything else.

Keep Velcro away

Zips and Velcro in the same machine tear at the fabric and pull out fibres. Close zips before washing or wash items with Velcro separately. A laundry bag gives the most delicate pieces extra protection from hard edges in the drum.

Gentle washing and drying

A gentle programme and low spin mean less movement and so less friction. The tumble dryer is one of the biggest sources of pilling, because clothes knock against each other in the heat. Let them air dry instead. It also spares the elastic and keeps the shape.

Removing pills

A fabric shaver cuts the pills off without damaging the fabric. Lay the garment flat and glide lightly over the surface without pressing. Avoid picking pills off with your fingers, as that pulls out more fibres. It usually stops after the first months, once loose fibres are gone.

Where it happens first

Pills show up first under the arms, on the sides and where a bag strap sits. On a T-shirt it is often the side at the hip that gets them first. If you carry a bag on the same shoulder every day, switch sides now and then. See bamboo T-shirt for women.

In short

Pilling comes from short fibres and friction. Wash inside out, close zips, wash gently and skip the tumble dryer. Remove pills with a fabric shaver rather than your fingers. For most fabrics it eases over time, and the garment looks neat again.

Frequently asked questions

Is pilling a sign of poor quality?

Not necessarily. Soft fabrics often have loose fibres at first, and this usually eases after a few washes. It is more about friction and washing than quality.

What is the best way to remove pills?

Use a fabric shaver and glide it lightly over the fabric while it lies flat. Avoid picking pills off with your fingers, as that pulls more fibres out of the yarn.

Why do I get pills on the side?

It is often friction from the arms, a bag strap or a desk. Switch the shoulder you carry your bag on, and wash the garment inside out to protect the outer side.

You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.

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