A brushed inside and what brushing costs in strength

Short answer: Brushing tears the loops on the inside into a soft, fuzzy surface. It feels warm and comfortable at once, because the surface holds more air. The price is that the raised fibres sit looser and wear first, so the fabric gets thinner and pills faster.

How it is done

After knitting, the fabric runs against rollers with fine metal hooks. The hooks pull fibre ends out of the loops on the inside and raise them like a soft pile. The number of passes decides how soft the result becomes. It happens on finished fabric, so it changes the surface, not the knit.

What the loops were before

Before brushing, the inside of sweat fabric is a row of small, firm loops of yarn. They already hold a little air, but they feel slightly rough and can catch on clothes underneath. Brushing makes them softer and more even, which is why the inside of brushed sweat fabric looks like a dense, even pile.

What you gain

The fuzzy surface holds more still air than open loops and feels warmer against the skin from the first moment. It is also gentler on bare skin, because there are no firm loops to feel. That is why brushed sweat fabric is the classic choice for autumn and winter. See bamboo sweatwear.

What you lose

The fibres pulled out of the loops sit looser than before. They pill sooner, and the fabric ends up thinner than an unbrushed one of the same weight, because part of the yarn's strength is spent on the brushing itself. That is the price of the soft surface, and worth knowing when you choose.

Why fibres wear first

Loose fibres take all the friction first. They wear from movement, from contact with clothes on top and in the washing machine. That is why pills often collect where the garment rubs against something. Pills can be removed carefully, and on their own they are not a sign of poor fabric.

Why the fabric goes flat

The raised fibres get pressed down and break off with wear and washing. After a while you notice the soft pile has thinned, especially at the elbows, back and underarms where friction is greatest. The fabric is not ruined because of it. It has simply lost some of its fuzziness.

How to keep the surface

Wash inside out at a low temperature and use as little spinning as possible. Let the garment air dry instead of tumble drying, which is hard on loose fibres. See also our range of bamboo hoodies for women if you want something soft for everyday wear.

When brushed is worth choosing

Brushed sweat fabric is a good choice when warmth and comfort matter most, for example at home, on cold mornings and in everyday autumn wear. If the garment will be washed often and must keep its surface for long, an unbrushed fabric can be more robust. Take a look at the bamboo sweatshirt for women too.

How to choose

Look at the fabric weight and at how dense and even the pile is. A heavy brushed fabric usually lasts longer than a thin one, because there is more yarn to wear down. Turn the garment inside out and check whether the surface lies evenly or is already starting to bobble.