How a neckband is attached

Short answer: The neckband is knitted as a strip, closed into a ring, folded in half and sewn around the neckline. It is shorter than the opening, and that is deliberate, because that is exactly what makes it sit close and neat.

A strip closed into a ring

The neckband starts as a knitted strip that is closed into a ring. The size of the ring has to suit the neckline, but it should not be as large. The seam where the ends of the strip meet should be flat, so it is not felt at the neck when the band is later attached.

The ring is measured up

The length of the strip depends on how snugly the neck should sit. If it is too long, the band waves. If it is too short, it pulls the neck crooked. The aim is a band that sits close to the body without pinching, and that balance is harder to hit than it looks.

Shorter than the opening

The band is shorter than the neckline, and that is intended. When it is sewn on it is stretched slightly, and that stretch draws it in toward the neck so it sits close and does not stand out. A band that matched the length exactly would hang loose around the neck.

Stretched while it is sewn

The sewer stretches the strip and holds the fabric flat while the machine runs. That evenness decides whether the band lies neatly all the way round. If the stretch is uneven, small waves appear that do not disappear in the wash. See bamboo sweatshirts for men and see for yourself how the neckband lies.

Folded in half

The strip is folded in half so both edges lie inside and the raw edge is hidden. That way the neckband is double and gets more body and shape than a single layer of fabric. The folded band also helps the neck stretch when you pull the garment over your head and return to shape afterward.

The back is finished

Finally the seam allowance is laid downward and sewn down with an extra seam, so the band does not curl upward. That lets the neckband lie smooth both outside and inside. See bamboo inner shorts and bamboo tennis socks for men, where edges also need to lie flat against the skin.

Why the neck waves

The neck waves on some garments because the strip was too long or was not stretched evenly during sewing. The waves are clearest when the garment lies flat. A strong wave suggests that the band was not attached with the same tension all the way round.

Why there is often a tape at the neck

It keeps the shoulder seam stable and covers the seam allowance inside. The tape lies flat along the neck and stops the seam from rubbing against the skin. It also helps keep the shape of the neckline, so it is not pulled out of shape when the garment is hung up and put on again.

Looking after the neckband

Do not pull on the neckband when you take the garment off, but grip the fabric under the arms. Wash according to the care label. A crooked neckband can rarely be corrected without unpicking it and sewing it on again, so it is best to avoid needless strain and pull calmly and evenly.