How a pattern becomes cut pieces

Short answer: The pattern pieces are laid out on a digital image of the fabric width, and the layout is optimised for the least possible waste. The fabric is then laid in layers and cut to the layout, so all pieces of a garment have the same shape and size.

A pattern is flat shapes

A pattern for a garment consists of flat pieces: front, back, sleeves and edges. Each piece has a shape and a size for every size in the range. Before anything can be cut, all pieces must be gathered in one image that shows how they lie on the fabric and how much fabric they need together.

A digital image of the fabric width

The fabric has a certain width, and it is entered on the screen as an empty surface. The pieces are placed on it like pieces in a puzzle. The digital image makes it possible to try many placements without rolling out fabric, and without cutting a single time too early.

The layout decides the waste

The pieces must be packed as tightly as possible without overlapping. A few percent of improvement in the layout equals many metres of fabric over a production, because fabric is a large part of the cost of a garment. Producers therefore spend time finding a layout that uses the fabric well.

Direction sets limits

The pieces cannot be placed in any direction, because knitted fabric behaves differently lengthwise and crosswise. That limits how close the pieces can lie, and it is one reason some layouts give more waste than others. Direction therefore comes first, even if it costs a little fabric.

The fabric is laid in many layers

Up to a hundred layers are laid on top of each other on a long table. The layers must lie smooth and without pull, so the lower pieces get the same shape as the upper ones. All layers are then cut at once. See offers for men if you want to see garments made that way.

The cutting is automatic

A machine follows the layout and cuts through all layers with a blade or a knife. It works from the digital file, so the pieces become alike from top to bottom. That gives the same result in layer one as in layer fifty, and it makes sewing easier, because the pieces fit together.

The pieces are bundled

When the pieces are cut, they are gathered in bundles by size. Each bundle is marked so it is not mixed up with others, and it goes on to sewing. It is a simple task, but a decisive one. See Zent and JBS of Denmark for brands you can compare.

What happens to the leftovers

They are collected and go to recycling, filling or waste depending on the factory. There is a big difference in how factories handle the leftovers, and you cannot see it on a finished garment. A good layout reduces the amount, but it never disappears, because the pieces have round and slanted shapes.

What it means for you

For you as a buyer the effect lies mostly in price and consistency. A clever layout keeps the cost down, and a precise cut gives equal pieces and a fit that is the same from garment to garment. You cannot see it on the label, but you can feel it in how the clothes sit and keep their shape.

Frequently asked questions

Why is the layout so important?

Because fabric is the biggest single expense in a garment. Waste goes straight into the price, so a small improvement in the layout means a lot over a whole production.