What happens on the cutting table

Short answer: The fabric is rolled out in layers, allowed to rest, covered with the layout and cut through. The rest matters, because a stretched fabric gives wrong measurements, and the pieces end up too small when the fabric draws together afterwards.

From roll to table

The fabric arrives at the factory on big rolls, and the cutting table is where the roll becomes pieces. The table is long and flat, so the fabric can lie without folds. It is here that it is decided how many garments a roll can become, which makes it one of the most important places in the production.

Rolling out and resting

The fabric is laid out by a machine that must not pull at it. It then has to lie still for hours, so it finds its natural width. The rest gives the fabric time to let go of the tension it got during rolling and transport, and it makes sure the pieces are cut to the right measurements.

Why the fabric must not be pulled

Knitted fabric is elastic, and a pull can stretch the loops without anyone seeing it. If the fabric is cut in a stretched state, it draws together again when it lets go. The pieces become smaller than the pattern says, and the garment ends up fitting tighter than intended.

The layout goes on top

Either the layout is printed on paper, or the cutting machine follows a digital file. The pieces lie close together, so there is as little waste as possible. The paper lies on top of the layers and works as a drawing the blade or knife can follow, without the pieces being measured again.

The layers must lie smooth

If the layers lie with folds, the pieces get the wrong shape and the size does not fit. Each layer is therefore smoothed without pull before the next is laid on. It takes time, but it is what makes the lower pieces as good as the upper ones. See bamboo dresses for garments where the fit matters a lot.

Cutting and marking

After cutting, the bundles are marked with size and batch, so the pieces are not mixed up in sewing. It is a small step, but it plays a large role. Without marking, a piece of a size M could end up with pieces of a size L. See women's bamboo pants and Bamboo Basics.

Why sleeve and body belong together

Fabric from two different batches can differ slightly in colour or structure. The bundles are therefore also marked with the batch, so sleeve and body in a garment come from the same batch of fabric. The difference is often small, but on a plain surface it can be seen, and it cannot be fixed once the pieces are sewn together.

What can go wrong

A stretched fabric gives pieces that are too small, a fabric with folds gives crooked pieces, and mixed batches give a difference in colour. All three faults arise before a single seam is sewn, and factories therefore spend time checking this step. It is cheaper to take time at the table than to cut again.

What it means for the garment

For you, the work at the cutting table means that the pieces in a garment fit together and the measurements match the size. You cannot see the resting or the marking on the finished garment, but you can feel that it fits the same every time and that sleeve and body share the same colour.