How a pattern is knitted into the fabric

Short answer: The pattern comes from varying the stitches, not from printing. The machine switches between knit, purl and skipped needles according to a program, so the pattern runs all the way through the fabric. It cannot flake off, but it makes the fabric more expensive and creates more waste when cutting.

Needles are controlled one by one

In a modern machine each needle can be switched on or off in every row. A program sets the order, and that is the only difference between a smooth surface and a pattern. The machine follows a digital drawing, and the same machine can knit many patterns by changing the program.

Knit, purl and skipped needles

Three basic moves create most patterns. Knit gives a smooth stitch, purl gives a horizontal bump, and a skipped needle lets the yarn lie free behind the fabric. Mixed in a set order they form ribs, diamonds and relief. The pattern is therefore a structure you can both see and feel.

Colours in the pattern

If you want several colours, they are knitted in as different yarns that change according to the program. The yarn not used in a row runs along the back of the fabric. That is why colour patterns often show long threads on the inside. It is also one reason coloured pattern knit is heavier and more complex to make than plain.

Why the pattern does not wear off

Because the pattern is a structure and not a layer of colour on top, it cannot crack or flake. It only disappears when the fabric itself is worn thin. A print, by contrast, can be rubbed away while the fabric underneath is still whole. See bamboo jogging suit for women.

What it costs

Pattern knit runs slower and creates more waste when cutting, because the pieces must match. That is why plain and smooth is always cheapest. Extra machine time and extra yarn mean a knitted pattern asks more of both machine and material, and that shows in the price. See bamboo sweatwear.

Why you see the pattern inside

The pattern often shows as a negative on the inside. Where the outside has a raised line, the inside has a hollow, and the other way round. In colour patterns the yarn shows behind the fabric. This is not a fault, but a result of how the stitches lie. Turn the garment and you can read how it was knitted.

Why it can make the fabric thicker

The structure gathers more yarn in a smaller area, so pattern knit can be a little thicker and heavier than smooth jersey. That often gives more warmth and a sturdier look. In return the fabric folds less softly and can take more room in the wardrobe. Check the weight if you want to know how heavy it is.

How to care for pattern knit

Wash inside out at a low temperature so the structure keeps its shape. Avoid hard spinning, which can pull at stitches and distort the pattern. Let the garment dry flat or hanging. See also the bamboo tops for women.

How to choose

Look for patterns that are even all the way round and where the pieces meet neatly at the seams. That shows the piece was cut with care. Feel the surface and check that the structure feels even. Choose a pattern you will still like in a few years, because it sits in the fabric.

Frequently asked questions

Can you see the pattern on the inside

Yes, often as a negative of the pattern on the outside. Where the outside has a raised line, the inside has a hollow.

Why are knitted patterns more expensive than prints

Because they take machine time, while a print is applied to a finished fabric. Pattern knit also creates more waste when cutting, since the pieces must match.