How a pocket is built on the inside

Short answer: A pocket consists of an opening, a bag and a reinforcement at each end. The bag hangs freely inside the garment and carries everything you put in it. It is the interplay between the three parts that decides how long a pocket lasts.

The opening must not stretch

The edge of the opening often gets a tape or an extra seam, because the hand pulls at it many times a day. Without it the opening grows larger and gapes. A tape holds the edge in place and spreads the pull, so the opening keeps its shape.

The bag carries the weight

The bag is sewn from a thinner fabric and hangs from the opening down into the garment. The weight pulls downward, so the seams at the bottom are the first to give way. If the bag is filled with heavy things such as keys or a phone, seams and fabric are loaded more than they were made for. See bamboo sweatpants for men.

Why the bag is made of thin fabric

The bag is often made of a thin, smooth fabric, because it takes up less room and wears less on the hand. A thick fabric would make the pocket bulky. The thin fabric lets the hand slide in and out, and it lies flat, so the pocket does not show on the outside.

The ends are reinforced

At both ends of the opening sits a bar tack, a small dense seam across. It stops the fabric from tearing further from the corner. Without it a small pull on the opening could spread like a rip down through the fabric. It is easy to overlook, but it matters. See bamboo undershirt for men and bamboo underwear for men.

Why pockets tear in the corner

Pockets tear most often in the corner, because the force gathers at the point where the opening ends and the fabric continues. Here an open edge meets a closed surface, and the pull has nowhere to go. That is why a reinforcement right in the corner is so important for extending the life of the pocket.

Can a pocket bag be repaired

Yes. Turn the garment inside out and sew the bag together again with a dense seam. If the bag has a hole at the bottom, you can sew along the edge of the hole so it does not grow. Use a thread that matches the bag fabric and sew with small, even stitches, so the repair does not bulk up and does not show on the outside.

Why the bag is often another fabric

Pocket bags are often in a different fabric from the garment itself, because a thin, smooth fabric takes up less room and wears less on the hand. The outer fabric is chosen for looks and comfort, while the bag fabric is chosen for what it has to do inside. The two jobs differ and therefore call for different fabrics.

How to go easy on your pockets

Do not fill the pockets with heavy things, and avoid pulling at the opening when you take your hands out. Empty the pockets before you wash the garment, so the bag is not pulled crooked by water and objects. Check the corners now and then, because a small loose stitch is easy to sew down while it is still small.

What to remember about pockets

A pocket is a small piece of work with three parts that each have a job. The opening has to keep its shape, the bag has to carry the weight, and the ends have to stop the fabric from tearing. If you know the three parts, it is easier to see where a pocket begins to give way and what you can do about it.

Frequently asked questions

Why do pockets always tear in the corner?

Because the force gathers at the point where the opening ends and the fabric continues. Here an open edge meets a closed surface, and the pull has nowhere to go.

Can I repair a pocket bag?

Yes. Turn the garment inside out and sew the bag together again with a dense seam and small, even stitches, so the repair does not bulk up or show outside.