Martindale and what the figure covers
Short answer: Martindale is an abrasion test where the fabric is rubbed against a standard fabric in a set motion. The number is how many rubs it takes before the fabric fails. It says something about resistance to wear, but not about comfort or fit.
The motion is a figure
The sample is guided in a pattern that crosses itself and hits the fabric from every direction. That imitates wear in use better than a straight motion, because clothing is really rubbed in changing directions. The motion is the same every time, so samples can be compared.
The standard fabric is a fixed factor
The fabric is rubbed against a standard fabric that is the same from test to test. That matters, because a different surface would wear differently and numbers could not be compared between laboratories. The standard fabric is not part of what is tested but a fixed point the result is measured against.
The number is a count of turns
Counting continues until threads break or a hole appears. High numbers mean high resistance to wear. So the number is not a grade but a count of how many times the sample was rubbed before it gave up. See Decoy to read how composition and weight are stated when you compare fabrics.
When is the fabric broken
The end point is fixed in the method. Typically it is when threads have broken or a hole can be seen. Without a clear definition two people would stop at different moments. That makes the number uniform enough to compare samples of the same type.
The number cannot be compared across types
Upholstery fabric and T-shirt fabric are measured against different requirements. A number only makes sense within the same type. A fabric with a high number is not automatically better than one with a lower number if they are meant for different things. See Urban Quest and Lindbergh, and compare only items made for the same purpose.
High and low numbers
The numbers run from a few thousand for light knit to tens of thousands for upholstery. A low number is not in itself a problem for a light piece of underwear, while the same number would be unacceptable on a sofa. So judge the number by what the item will be used for.
What the number does not say
The number tells you about resistance to wear and nothing else. Comfort, fit, colour fastness and pilling are measured with other tests. A fabric can have a high number and still feel stiff or fit poorly, and a soft fabric can have a lower number. That is a reason to look at several details, not just one.
Why basics are rarely tested with it
For basics, people more often look at pilling, shrinkage and seam strength, because those are the things customers typically notice. Martindale matters most where wear is the main risk, for example furniture. So it is not unusual for a T-shirt to lack a Martindale number, and it is no sign that something is missing.
How to use the number
If you get a Martindale number in a specification or product description, ask which method and end point were used and what the number is compared with. A number without that information is nearly useless. With it, the number can be a useful part of the whole picture.
Frequently asked questions
Which numbers are typical?
From a few thousand for light knit to tens of thousands for upholstery. What counts as a reasonable number depends entirely on what the fabric will be used for.
Does a high number mean good clothing?
It means a resistant fabric. Comfort and fit are not measured by it, so a high number tells only part of the story.
Is clothing always tested with Martindale?
No. For basics people more often look at pilling, shrinkage and seam strength, because those things more often decide how the garment holds up in daily life.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
