The shape of the heel in a sock
Short answer: A properly knitted heel has a gusset that follows the angle of the foot. Without it the sock slides down inside the shoe and folds under the foot.
What a heel has to do
The foot bends at almost a right angle at the ankle. A sock that is just a straight tube has to stretch over that bend, and it is pulled downward with every step. A knitted heel has extra stitches exactly there.
How to see the difference
Lay the sock flat. If you can see a clear angle where the heel bulges out, the heel is shaped. If the sock is completely straight, it is not. See bamboo socks for men.
What it means in practice
A shaped heel stays put, does not roll down at the back and wears evenly. An unshaped heel gives a fold under the foot and a hole in the heel before long. See bamboo socks for women and bamboo trainer socks for women.
Frequently asked questions
Can you see it in a photo of a sock
Often yes. Look for an angle between the leg and the foot.
Why do ankle socks slip off
Either the heel shaping is missing or the sock is a size too big.
Does the heel wear out fastest
Yes, along with the toe. Those are the two places that meet the shoe hardest.