What gauge means on a knitting machine
Short answer: Gauge is the English word for how fine a knitting machine is, and it is measured in needles per inch. A high number means many thin needles and a fine fabric, while a low number means few coarse needles and a chunkier knit. The number describes the machine, not the quality of the finished fabric.
The number describes density, not quality
Gauge tells you how many needles sit in one inch of the machine cylinder. It says something about density, not about how good the fabric is. Gauge twelve and gauge twenty-eight are two different machines for two different fabrics. Neither is better, they simply make something different.
How it translates into fabric
Low gauge is used for heavy knitwear with visible stitches, like a thick sweater. High gauge is used for T-shirt fabric, underwear and socks, where the stitches should be almost invisible. The finer the machine, the smoother and thinner the surface becomes. Read about bamboo hoodies for women to see knitwear in daily life.
Why the machine cannot simply switch
The needles are fixed in the cylinder, and the fineness cannot be changed once the machine is built. A factory therefore needs several machines to make several kinds of fabric. That is one reason some fabrics are more awkward to produce. See bamboo loungewear for women and bamboo T-shirt for women.
What the needles do to the stitch
Each needle forms one stitch in every round. When the needles sit close together, the stitches are small and more of them fit into a centimetre. When they sit far apart, the stitches are large and the fabric looks more open. That is why you can often tell fine from coarse knit by the size of the stitches.
Gauge and yarn thickness belong together
The yarn has to suit the machine. A thick yarn cannot be forced between very close needles, and a very thin yarn leaves holes in a coarse machine. So yarn and gauge are chosen together, so the stitches fill the space evenly. If they do not match, the fabric turns stiff and tight or loose and crooked.
How to count for yourself
You can get a hint of the fineness without knowing the machine. Lay a ruler on the finished fabric and count the stitches over ten centimetres. The more stitches, the finer the machine. It is not exact, since the fabric may be stretched or shrunk, but it shows the density when you compare two garments.
Gauge in socks and underwear
Socks and underwear are often knitted on small, fine machines where the cylinder is narrow and the needles sit close. That gives a soft, thin fabric that can lie close to the skin without adding bulk in a shoe or under clothes. The narrow cylinder is also why sock machines are small with many needles.
Gauge and stretch
Fine stitches can stretch and recover because each stitch is small and held by many neighbours. A coarse knit shows the stretch more clearly, and a sweater can grow long and loose if it hangs a lot. So makers think about how gauge and yarn behave together before deciding how a garment should fit.
What you should choose
There is no single right gauge. If you want a warm, heavy knit to wear on top, a low gauge suits. If you want something thin and smooth that lies close, a high gauge suits. What matters is that you read the number as a description of the fabric, so you can compare two garments.
Frequently asked questions
What is gauge in sock machines
Often between one hundred and two hundred and forty needles in the cylinder, depending on the sock type. The figure is the total number of needles on the small round machine, not needles per inch.
Can you see gauge on the finished fabric
Partly. Count the stitches per centimetre and you have a good hint. The number is affected by stretch and shrinkage, so use it to compare two garments, not to measure exactly.
Is gauge also used for hand knitting
Yes, but there it means stitches and rows over ten centimetres. It lets the knitter hit the right size when a pattern has to suit the yarn that was chosen.
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