What lies behind the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 label
Short answer: Standard 100 is a test of the finished textile for harmful substances. If the item passes, the producer may label it, and the label applies to exactly the item that was tested, not to everything else the producer makes.
What Standard 100 is
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is a label based on a test of the finished textile for harmful substances. The test is carried out by one of the institutes in the OEKO-TEX cooperation, and the result decides whether the item may carry the label. It says something about chemical content, not about how or where the garment was made.
Why the finished textile is tested
The test starts from the finished textile and not only the raw material. Chemicals can enter a garment at many stages, from dyeing to printing and sewing on labels. By testing the finished item, you look at what the customer actually receives, not at one link in the chain.
It is a substance test, not a quality test
The test says something about chemical content, not about how long the garment lasts or how well it fits. The two are often mixed up. A garment can pass the test and still be thin or fit badly, and a garment without the label can be hard-wearing and pleasant to wear.
All parts must pass
Fabric, thread, label tape, buttons and prints are tested separately. If one part fails, the whole item cannot be labelled. That means even a small detail such as a button or a print can decide whether the item gets the label. See Boody and read what is stated for each item.
The label belongs to an item
The certificate covers the items named in it. It does not automatically apply to everything the producer makes. A new model, a new fabric or a new colour is a new item and must be assessed on its own. So check whether the exact item you are considering is named. See Lindbergh and Copenhagen Bamboo.
What the label does not say
The label says nothing about where the fibres were grown, how the workers are treated or how much energy was used. It is a test of the end product. If you want to know more about those other matters, look for information elsewhere, because a single label cannot cover everything.
Does the label mean the item is organic
No. Standard 100 is about harmful substances, not cultivation. A garment can be labelled without being organic, and an organic garment may lack the label. They are different labels that answer different kinds of questions, and they should not be confused.
How to check a certificate
A certificate can be checked. The number can be looked up at OEKO-TEX and shows what it covers. If you are unsure whether an item is really included, that is the safest route. Look for the number on the item or in the product description, where given, and look it up.
What you can do yourself
Read what is stated about the item and see whether the label is mentioned. Wash new clothes according to the care label before wearing them, as you would with any other clothing. If you have a skin condition or are unsure, talk to your doctor about which textiles suit you.
Frequently asked questions
Does the label mean the item is organic?
No. Standard 100 is about harmful substances in the finished textile, not cultivation. A garment can therefore be labelled without being organic, so the two should be kept apart.
Who issues the certificate?
One of the institutes in the OEKO-TEX cooperation. The institute tests the item, and if it passes, the producer can label it, but only the item that was tested.
Can you check a certificate?
Yes. The number can be looked up at OEKO-TEX and shows what it covers. That is the safest way to see whether the exact item you are considering is covered by the certificate.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
