Why two factories give two fits
Short answer: Because each factory has its own pattern basis, its own machines and its own way of measuring. The same drawing therefore does not become the same garment, and you often notice it only when you try it on.
Base patterns are not identical
Each factory starts from a base pattern it knows and is used to sewing. Small differences in armhole, shoulder width and neckline follow through the whole model. Two factories can receive the same drawing and still deliver garments that sit slightly differently on the body.
Seam allowances and machines vary
A factory that sews with a larger seam allowance gets a narrower garment from the same pattern. Machine settings and stitch length also change how the fabric is pulled and how it hangs. See bamboo clothing for men and compare measurements rather than only the size label.
The measurement chart is the factory's language
A measurement chart states how wide and long a garment should be in each size. The factory sews to the numbers but does not always measure from the same points as the brand. The chart must be precise, and where to measure must be agreed before the first sample is sewn.
Fabric plays a part
Even with the same pattern and factory, fabrics behave differently. Weight, stretch and surface change how the garment hangs and how much it gives. A factory used to sewing a certain fabric knows its properties, while another must learn them from scratch.
Sample rounds before production
Before a batch starts, samples are sewn, measured against the chart and tried on a model. If the garment is too tight or too loose, the pattern is corrected and a new sample is sewn. When two factories should match, it often takes more rounds than expected.
Why everything is measured at a switch
If a brand changes factory, all sizes are measured again and compared with the old pattern, measurement by measurement, before anything goes into production. It is a big job, but needed to keep the fit fairly stable. See JBS and JBS of Denmark and compare the measurements of the models you are considering.
The factory rarely appears on the label
Only the country of production appears on the garment, and the factory name rarely does. You cannot always tell whether two items were sewn in the same place. The safest approach is to read the measurements on the product page and compare them with a garment you already own that fits well.
How to choose your size
Hold a well-fitting garment up against the measurements on the product page and compare width, length and sleeve length. If you are between two sizes, consider whether the fabric stretches and how you plan to wear it. Washing can also change the fit slightly, so always follow the care label.
Frequently asked questions
Can two factories match exactly?
Yes, but it takes several sample rounds and precise measurement charts. Even then, small differences in fabric and sewing can mean two garments do not feel quite the same when worn.
Why do I notice a difference between two seasons?
It may be a change of factory, a new fabric or an adjustment to the model that the brand made on purpose. Compare the product page measurements when you buy the same model again.
Does the label show the factory?
Only the country. The factory name rarely appears on the garment, so the measurements on the product page are the best guide to whether the fit will be similar.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
