What happens when a fabric cannot be sourced again
Short answer: Either a similar fabric is found, or the model is discontinued. A new fabric needs a new sample, because the fit changes with the fabric's stretch and weight, even when the composition looks the same on paper.
First a similar fabric is sought
When a fabric cannot be sourced again, the brand starts looking for a similar one. It compares composition, weight, stretch and surface and asks several suppliers for samples. That takes time, and there is no guarantee anything will match the old fabric closely enough.
A similar fabric is not the same
Two fabrics with the same composition can differ in weight, stretch and surface. The garments therefore turn out different, even when the label says the same. A slightly heavier fabric hangs differently, and a fabric with less stretch gives a garment that feels tighter when worn.
The fit must be tried again
If the fabric changes, the model is measured and tried again. Otherwise the same size may suddenly fit differently. A sample is sewn in the new fabric, washed, and the measurements are compared with the old garment. Only when the sample fits as it should does work continue. See offers for men for models on sale now.
Washing and shrinkage must be tested
A new fabric must be washed before you know how it behaves. It can shrink more or less than the old one, lose colour or change surface. So a sample that looks good at first glance is not enough. It must go through washing and drying before the brand dares use the fabric.
Sometimes it is better to stop
If a fabric cannot be matched, it is more honest to let the model go than to sell something that only looks similar. Customers who have bought the model before expect the new delivery to fit like the old one. If that cannot be done, it is better to take it out of the range.
The price can change too
A new fabric can cost more or less than the old one, and that can change what the garment costs to make. Sometimes a model no longer pays if the only suitable fabric is much dearer. Then the question is whether to change the model, raise its price or stop it.
What you can see as a customer
The composition is always on the item, and you can compare it. Weight and stretch are seldom listed, so use the measurements on the product page and your own experience with the brand. If you have a favourite, keep its size in mind and compare when you buy the same model again. See Zent and JBS.
Why a fabric can disappear
A fabric can disappear because the mill stops it or because the yarn behind it is no longer made. Sometimes a mill closes or a machine is taken out of service. It happens without warning for the brands that buy the fabric, and they must then find a way forward.
Can you buy the fabric yourself
Not in small quantities. Fabrics are sold in batches far above what a private person uses. A single project needs a few metres, while a batch runs to many times that. That is part of the reason why a discontinued fabric cannot simply be ordered again.
Frequently asked questions
Does the page say the fabric has changed?
The composition is always on the item. Weight and stretch seldom are, so compare the measurements on the product page and read the care label when you buy a model you have bought before.
Why can a fabric disappear?
Because the mill stops it or the yarn behind it is no longer made. It happens without warning for the brands that buy the fabric, and they must then find another solution.
Can you buy the fabric yourself?
Not in small quantities. Fabrics are sold in batches far above private use, so it is not something you can order as an individual for a single project.
You can find the full range at Bamboo-Clothing.com.
