What vanity sizing is

Short answer: Vanity sizing is when a brand cuts its garments larger without changing the letter on the label. An M today can therefore be wider than an M from twenty years ago. The letter tells you less than it used to, and the centimetres are what count.

The letter moves, not the body

The measurements behind a letter can change without anyone being told. Customers only see the letter on the label and do not notice that the piece has become a little wider than before. That is why an M can fit differently from year to year and brand to brand.

Where the name comes from

The word vanity means pride in appearance, and the name points to the fact that many customers prefer to fit a smaller letter. That may explain why letters no longer follow the same yardstick. As a buyer, do not trust the letter alone, and always look at the numbers in the chart.

It makes comparison impossible

When two brands have moved differently, the letter is no use for comparing. An M at one brand can mean something quite different at another. That makes it hard to know what to order when you buy from several brands. See the range of bamboo clothing for women.

The size chart is immune

Centimetres cannot be moved. That is why the chart is the only place where you can compare honestly. A chart with numbers for bust, waist and hip says more than a letter, because the numbers do not change meaning from brand to brand. Read the numbers first and use the letter as a shortcut.

How to read a size chart

Find the measurement that matters most to you and compare it with the numbers in the chart. If you fall between two sizes, think about whether you prefer a close or loose fit. Check whether the chart shows body or garment measurements. See the chart for bamboo panties as an example.

Where you meet it most

Vanity sizing can turn up in any kind of clothing, but you notice it most when you shop across several brands. A favourite size at one brand may not fit at another. That includes underwear such as period underwear, where a measurement from the chart is more reliable than the letter.

How to avoid getting confused

Put the letter aside and look only at the numbers in the chart. Measure yourself, write the numbers down and compare them with the chart, whatever letter stands beside them. Do that every time and it does not matter how far the letters have moved. You then buy on numbers, not on feel.

Use your own measurements

A garment you already own and like is the best yardstick. Lay it flat, measure it and compare with the chart. Then you know exactly which size at a new brand matches what you know. It works no matter what the label in the old garment says.

What you can do in practice

Start by measuring yourself if you have not done so lately. Then compare the numbers with the chart on each product page and read the description to see whether the cut is close or loose. Ask the shop if anything is unclear. It takes a few minutes and means fewer returns.

Frequently asked questions

Why do brands do it

Because many customers prefer to fit a smaller letter, and because nobody controls the letter. Each brand can therefore pick its own yardstick without saying so.