Why a new fabric feels rough the first few times
Short answer: New fabrics carry leftover finishing and fibre ends that have not yet worn down. After a couple of washes both disappear, and the surface turns softer. A rough new fabric is therefore rarely a sign of poor quality.
The chemistry from production
Fabrics are treated to be stiff enough to be cut and sewn. The starch or agent used in that process stays in the fabric until the first wash. That is one reason a brand new garment can feel stiffer and less soft than you expected when you take it out of the packaging.
The ends are still sharp
New yarn has fibre ends that stand straight out from the surface. After wear and washing they bend or fall off, and the surface becomes more even. These are the same fibre ends that cause itch on coarse fabrics, so they are felt most at the start. See bamboo leggings for women.
Why one wash before use is advised
A single wash removes residue, relaxes the fabric and makes the surface softer. It is the quickest route to a comfortable garment, and it costs only an ordinary wash. Follow the care instructions on the label, and wash new clothes with similar colours. See bamboo training pants for women and bamboo training shorts for women.
How many washes it takes
One wash removes most of what causes the first stiffness. Two to three washes give the final softness, because the fibres relax and the ends wear down. There is no exact number, since it depends on the fabric and on how much you wear the garment between washes.
Can fabric softener speed it up
It feels softer, but fabric softener leaves a film on the fabric that reduces moisture transport. It can therefore take away some of what you may have chosen the garment for. If you want softer clothes, let washing and wear do the work rather than laying a film over the fibres.
Wash gently
Wash at the temperature on the label, and turn the garment inside out if you like. That way the surface is less worn by other things in the drum. Skip a very hot tumble dryer if the label advises against it. Gentle washing keeps shape and surface nicer for longer and lets the fabric become comfortable rather than worn.
Rough does not mean poor quality
A fabric that feels rough when new is not necessarily of low quality. Many good fabrics are stiff from the factory and become softer with use. Quality shows better after some washes than in the first moment. Wait to judge until the fabric has been washed a couple of times.
How to feel the difference
Feel the fabric before you wash it the first time, and again after the second or third wash. Run your fingers along the surface and hold it against the skin on the inside of the forearm. The difference is often clear, and it gives you a good sense of how soft the fabric ends up.
If it still feels rough
If the fabric is still rough after several washes, it may be an ordinary difference in the nature of the fabric or a surface that suits you less. Then it is worth contacting the shop, which can help you further. If you have skin discomfort that does not go away, talk to your doctor.
Frequently asked questions
How many washes does it take
One wash removes most of it. Two to three give the final softness, but it depends on the fabric and on how much the garment is worn between washes.
Can fabric softener speed it up
It feels softer, but it leaves a film that reduces moisture transport. Let washing and wear do the work instead, and the fabric keeps its properties.
Is a rough new fabric a sign of low quality
Not necessarily. Many good fabrics are stiff from the factory and become softer after a few washes, so wait to judge until it has been washed a couple of times.
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